Sophisticated Savories

Sophisticated Savories

Sunday, January 12, 2014

Slow cooker - Roast

"Patience is a virtue."

In terms of a slow cooker, you can best believe that the magic created whilst adhering to the virtue of patience.  The sheer brilliance of a slow cooker lies in the realm that essentially it does everything for you... a key instrument when preparing juicy, fall-of-the-bone meats.

A roast, for example.  One would imagine that when everything cooks together in a large cauldron for hours upon hours, that everything in said pot would turn about fifty shades of... brown.  Well, true.  However, the flavors created are literally indescribable...camouflaged by their un-impressive appearance.  So how does showcase said deserving flavors, as opposed to slopping the muddled protein and veggies atop each other?

First of all, let's run through a delicious, yet easy, slow-cooked roast recipe.

Select a variety of vegetables... onion, zucchini and potato.  Chop the vegetables in large chunks (about 2 inch pieces).  Why large?  Since they will be cooking for about 6-7 hours, they will have amply time to cook, caramelize and permeate the cooking broth.  The large cuts will also allow the vegetables to retain their shapes for the long cooking duration.  Spray the bottom of the slow-cooker with a nonstick spray, then place the vegetables on the bottom of the pot.  Add a few springs of thyme and rosemary, as well as 2 cloves of garlic (smash first).

Season all sides of the roast with smoked sea salt, smokey paprika, black pepper and a light dust of cayenne pepper.  If you do not have smoked sea salt, simply substitute coarse sea salt (you can often find smoked sea salt in bulk at organic markets or online).  Heat almond or walnut oil on a large saute pan, then sear all sides of the roast (about 2 minutes on each side, depending on the size of protein).  The goal is simply to achieve a crust on all sides.  Once seared on all sides, brush with a light coating of Dijon mustard.  Chop rosemary fine and press onto the Dijon in order to form a light Dijon/rosemary crust.  Place the seared roast atop the bed of vegetables.  

In order to add a few more flavor dimensions, I will generally add about 1/4 cup or chicken stock and 1/4 cup of white wine, as well as 1-2 tsp of liquid smoke.  The liquid smoke gives the entire dish a mild, smokey flavor (can be found usually in the condiment section of any grocery store).  Lid on, then let the magic occur... generally low heat, cooked for about 6-7 hours.

In terms of plating... add finesse.  Yes, use the juices from the slow cooker (you may have to reduce on the stove top) in order to serve.  Place the vegetables on the bottom of the plate, then carefully top with the slices of roast.  But... it's still brown...

Enter in "Little Miss Sunshine."  Aka, sunny-side up egg.  The vibrant egg will not only add a necessary bright color contrast, but the yolk will melt into the meat when consumed in the same bite (a perfect compliment to the smokey-essence that was absorbed into the roast).  Delicately transfer the sunny-side up egg from the saute pan to rest atop the mouth-watering roast.  To finish, add a few fresh herbs (chervil, parsley, micro greens).

"Every artist dips his brush in his owl soul, and paints his own nature into his pictures." - Henry Ward Beecher

J'adore.
sb

Saturday, January 11, 2014

Seared scallops with pea puree, white wine-poached peas, cilantro oil and microgreens/flowers

Seven years ago, my culinary arsenal consisted of my college meal plan card, a can opener and frozen prepared meals.  One step above ramen noodles... or maybe not... everything was already made!

Two weeks after I graduated from college, I stepped off the plane into the dazzling City of Lights, Paris, France.  Armed with enthusiasm, a hunger to learn and ridiculously-large smile, I began my studies as Le Cordon Bleu.  Though providing more of the comic relief, rather than culinary experience, to my fellow students, I learned.  I improved.  I actually learned the basic fundamentals of cooking.

But as a chef, there is so much more to just recipes, techniques and cooking methods.  Food is fuel.  Food is art.  Textures, flavors, seasonings, colors, portion sizes, menu variation... I know it may seem overwhelming, but don't jump ship just yet.  As you experiment in the kitchen, you will gain confidence in your own creations.

"Experience: the most brutal of teachers.  But you learn, my God do you learn." - C.S. Lewis

Cooking example:

Scallops are one of my favorite shellfish to cook and consume.  I always pair scallops with vegetables, as opposed to potatoes or pasta.  Why?  When cooked properly, scallops for a crisp, golden crust that provides a slight buttery crust on the palate.  The inside flesh is tender, yet slightly creamy.  Much the same consistency to potatoes or pasta... in fact, too similar.  When pairing with vegetables (cauliflower puree, peas/edamame, etc.), the vegetables provide a necessary "crunch" to 'bring to the table.'

Pun intended.

Remember to keep it simple.  Draw on the wise words of da Vince: "simplicity is the ultimate sophistication."  

Seared scallops, pea puree, peas poached in white wine and finished with cilantro oil, microgreens and edible flowers.

When plating, remember that odd numbers will provide more symmetry on the plate.  Consider your plate as the face of a clock.  First dollop a small drop of pea puree at 12, 4 and 8 o'clock.  This will act as your glue, in order to "secure" your scallops to the plate.  It will also incorporate the sweet pea puree directly into the scallop when the knife makes its first incision- breaking the crisp crust seal, through the perfectly cooked shellfish and landing in the pea puree.

Rather than littering the plate with wondering peas, remember to showcase the scallops.  I mean, let's face it - they are already sitting on a platform of pea puree... let's give them their 15-minutes of fame and surround them by their pea "fans."

Ridiculous.

For a touch of color and more flavor, drizzle the rim with cilantro oil.  Lastly, use the microgreens and flowers to add finesse.  This is not the shire, so do not showcase your green-thumbs on the plate and build a garden.  Rather, a few will do.  Gently place the microgreens on the scallops.  Lastly, I used purple flowers.  Why?  Purple signifying royalty.  Ok, that was not the reason... though it is appropriate for the scallops!  Rather, look at the plate... you're already working with green and yellow/gold... purple is a nice additive in order to provide a subtle burst of color.  Not too much, but just enough.

"The artist is nothing without the gift, but the gift is nothing without work" - Emily Zola

J'adore.
sb

Friday, January 10, 2014

Deconstructing desserts

Deconstructing desserts

One brilliant aspect about "deconstructing" plates is the freedom in making mistakes. When learning the art of plating, it takes time in order to create your own style... what sets you apart from another individual... what is aesthetically pleasing not only to you, but others as well?

Let's run through an example.

In front of you lies a series of already prepared elements of a dessert that, when paired together, transform into a mouth-watering blend of flavors and textures:

Bourbon-poached fresh figs
Ground toasted pistachios
Lavender ice-cream
Pistachio genoise cake
Creme Anglaise
Strudel crumble
Edible Flowers

A traditional manner of plating this dish...

Creme anglaise on the bottom of the plate. Then pistachio genoise, topped with poached figs, crumble, pistachios, flowers on top and ice-cream on the side.

Nothing is wrong with this traditional approach. It is more of an "expected" presentation.

But what happens if there are only a few corner pieces of cake, the figs may not look as "perfect" as one had hoped, the crumble is a little "clumsy?"

Rather than discard the "scraps," challenge them to create the same dessert... just arrange in a more artistic manner. "C'est toujours une solution." (There is always a solution).

This time... creme anglaise still on the bottom of the plate... then the 'scraps' of genoise cake with the poached figs interspersed between the cake. Dust with a sprinkle of the ground pistachios and add the strudel crumble around the side of the cake. To finish, add a perfect quenelle of the lavender ice-cream, then edible flowers.

Do not color inside of the lines. Well, let me back-up... when preparing the food (ex- baking a cake) - it is essential to follow the recipe. Pastry is a science. If you do not have the correct ratios, then the final result will probably not meet your expected intentions. With cuisine, there is more leeway... it is the more 'forgiving' of the culinary arts... but we shall touch on that subject at a latter time. Be that as it may, when baking, be sure to follow the recipe. However, when plating, be creative. Your white plate is your blank canvas. Use sauces as "paint." Use pastry brushes in order to "paint" designs with your sauces. Use fruits in order to incorporate more color into your final presentation. Toast nuts and grind into a fine powder in order to add a crunchy texture, as well as "soft" element to dance across the plate. I am no stranger to edible flowers and micro-greens... I believe that they can add another beautiful element to the plate when properly used (showcased, as opposed to overkill).

"Art is a collaboration between God and the artist, and the less the artist does the better." - Andre Gide

J'adore.
sb

Thursday, January 9, 2014

Watermelon Radish

Don't judge a book by its cover...

Watermelon Radish. Such a pleasant surprise.

Resembling some type of rutabaga or turnip, a watermelon radish can easily be disregarded as a simple root vegetable when perusing through fresh produce at the grocery/farmers market. However, when cutting into the radish, a brilliant pink center illuminates and the radish immediately transforms into an eye-catching pleasure.

While a watermelon radish is more mild, yet more sweet, than a regular radish, it may also be braised/seared like other root vegetables (though I admit... it pains me to cook these vegetables, as their brilliant pink color fades upon and direct cooking heat). Ergo, I will often shave the root vegetables thin (with a mandolin) and season lightly. Because they are an heirloom variety of the daikon radish, they can withstand being paired with salads or fish (they are sweet enough).

I recently happened upon a pomegranate vinegar... pairs brilliant with pork and sauerkraut for the New Year (will talk about that recipe in another post). I simply added 1/4 cup of the pomegranate vinegar to a warm saute (nonstick) pan, then allowed it to slowly reduce to a thick syrup-consistency (very bright on the palate in terms of fruity-taste).

As a composed dish, I seared a scallop in order to achieve a golden crust (yet still tender in the middle) - seasoned only with salt, sprinkle of cayenne pepper and few drops of lemon juice. I then added a few lightly marinated watermelon radish slices (simply marinated in 1 Tbsp orange juice, 1 tsp apple cider vinegar and salt/pepper). A small Parmesan crisp, crumbled roasted almonds, pomegranate reduction and watercress to garnish were the final touches. If you are keen to bacon, then chop cooked bacon fine and mix in with the chopped almonds... will give a nice sweet/savory element to the scallop.

Simple. Elegant.

"Imagination rules the world." - Napoleon Bonaparte

J'adore.
sb

Ahi Tuna salad with Herbs de Provence

Ahi Tuna salad with Herbs de Provence

One of my favorite dried herbs to use is herbs de Provence. Generally a mix of: rosemary, thyme, oregano, marjoram and lavender, the concoction was deemed "herbs de Provence" in the 1970s.

When working with ahi tuna, it is generally paired with more Asian-inspired dishes... sesame seeds, sesame seed oils, wasabi, sushi, sashimi, etc. However, ahi tuna can also be enjoyed with a more French/Mediterranean influence.

Ahi Tuna salad.

No, I am not talking about the canned tuna, smothered in mayonnaise and often left at a balmy room-temperature on the buffet table line. Well, if we garnish it with kale and throw in a few grapes then at least we tried.

No. Not better.

Rather, lightly seared ahi tuna with fresh vegetables. Let's try this one on for size, shall we?

Season a fillet of ahi tuna with salt, pinch of cayenne pepper and a nice "crust" of herbs de Provence (covering all sides of the fish). Heat extra-virgin olive oil on a medium-high non-stick pan. Many individuals consume ahi raw; however, from time to time I will give my tuna quick "kiss" on the stove top in order to create a slight sear and impart more flavors into the meat. Once the oil is warm, quickly sear all sides of the fillet (only about 10 seconds on each side). Again, the goal is not to cook through the entire fish; but rather, help infuse the olive oil and herbs de Provence into the tuna crust. After all sides are kissed, remove the fillet from the pan and allow to cool. Dice into small cubes with a serrated knife and mix in a few diced cucumbers.

Keep the garnish simple. I shaved a cucumber thin, then wrapped it around a small mound of lightly seared ahi tuna. A few edible flowers and microgreens/mache leaves complimented the pink tuna. A few drizzles of reduced balsamic vinaigrette and drops of Dijon mustard were the final key components. Before serving, squeeze a hint of fresh lemon upon the tuna.

Clean. Simple. Healthy.

"Our life is frittered away by detail. Simplify. Simplify." - Henry David Thoreau

J'adore.
sb

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Daily Routine - Juicing

I was recently asked about my daily routine - as far as the meals that I prepare for myself, juicing routine, etc. One of my New Years resolutions has been to juice on a daily routine. One of the many benefits associated with juicing? A clear, vibrant complexion. Ergo, no need for the gobs and gobs of heavy makeup. Thus bringing me to a second resolution: forget the "heavy" makeup on a dailybasis and stick with a more natural style.

That being said, I have been waking up and consuming a large bottle of water (with a few drops of lemon). I know that everyone is familiar with the old adage of "hydration is essential," but I have been noticing a change in pigment, as well as more vibrant eyes. Sure, you may hear someone say, "drink more water," but it is encouraging when you actually do make a change and see a positive result.

I thus begins the juicing process - trying to use as many leafy greens as possible, but also throwing other fruits and vegetables in when necessary.

One of my favorite green juices includes: spinach, kale, cucumber, cilantro, green apples, ginger, celery and lemon. In order to give the juice more of a "kick," I also add 1 tsp of cayenne pepper (that will wake you up!) and top with sparkling Perrier water (it just seems to make it more of a treat with the bubbles).

As far as food, I eat "clean" for the large majority of my diet. I have been trying to steer clear of gluten, as I genuinely feel better while consuming a gluten-free diet. I must admit, I used to drink way too much coffee (3-4 cups per day - yikes!) However, I have eliminated the caffeine to one cup in the morning (that has not been an 'easy' change!)

This morning, for example...

1 large bottle of cold water with a few squeezes of lemon juice
Green Juice (ingredients listed above)
2 egg whites - pinch of cayenne pepper of smokey paprika
1 piece of gluten-free whole wheat toast
1 large slice of heirloom tomato
Spinach and micro-greens
Drizzle of truffle oil (I'm a huge fan of the "earthy" element)

Lunch will be a brilliant curry-vegetable soup that I made a few days ago. I love to garnish soups with 0% Greek yogurt (as opposed to sour cream). Not only does the yogurt provide active cultures necessary to aid with digestion, but it is also fat free and adds a "tang" to the soup. Dinner will be veggie-burgers. My mother made brilliant veggie burgers while I was visiting my parents in Arizona for the holidays (and thus inspired me to create my own version!) I found some canned beans, frozen peas and fresh zucchini - rather than have to battle the frigid "frozen tundra" temperatures of Ohio, I will remain indoors and cook. Kick start that creativity!

"Healthy citizens are the greatest asset any country can have." - Winston Churchill

J'adore.
sb

Beef Carpaccio with truffle oil, pine nuts, creamy havarti, orange zest and shallots

Portion control.

While I admit that I consume as many fresh vegetables and fruits into my daily diet as possible, from time to time my body craves a hearty protein. While a "hunk of steak" can be difficult to digest (especially when used to consuming more "fiber rich" produce), one of my favorite treats is a thinly-pounded and perfectly seasoned beef carpaccio. Carpaccio is the international name of a typical Italian dish that is made with raw meat and served mainly as an appetizer. Because the dish is raw, it is essential that a fresh, quality cut of meat to used (no, none of the "manager's special" discount meats at your local grocery store). In terms of cost, fret not; only a small amount of meat is needed for preparation. That being said, opt for a fresh piece of beef sirloin - as it is more flavorful that a fillet, as well as able to "hold its own" when seasoned properly.

Beef Carpaccio with truffle oil, pine nuts, creamy havarti, orange zest and shallots

1 medium shallot
2 Tbsp red wine/pomegranate vinegar
2 Tbsp toasted pine nuts
Zest of 1 orange
2 oz Creamy Havarti, for garnish
Micro-greens
Truffle oil, to drizzle
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 oz leaf beef (beef sirloin/tenderloin)
Pomegranate seeds (optional)
Pinch of cayenne pepper and smokey paprika

First, peel and dice the shallot into a fine mince. Place in a small bowl with the pomegranate vinegar (if you cannot find pomegranate vinegar, then you may opt for red wine vinegar instead). Add a pinch of salt, cayenne pepper and smokey paprika, then allow to marinate for at least 10 minutes.

Cut the beef into 1 ounce-slices. Trim away any large layers of fat or gristle (it is white). Place each slice in between 2 layers of heavy-plastic wrap or parchment paper. Carefully pound the beef flat with a meat mallet (can also use a rolling pin) until the thickness is only about 1/16inch. Again, the goal is to pound into very thin slices. Place the flattened slices in the refrigerator in order to chill (no not remove the plastic). You may prepare the meat up to a few hours before serving in this state.

In order to serve, gently peel the top layer of plastic away from each slice. Invert the slices onto a chilled plate and slowly peel away the remaining plastic. Top each slice with a light drizzle of truffle oil, orange zest, marinated shallot, pomegranate seeds, creamy Havarti cheese and micro-greens. Serve immediately.

When serving carpaccio, I have had requests before in first "kissing" the beef on a saute pan with a light sear before serving. Granted, this method no longer constitutes as a "true carpaccio," since, there is a short element of cooking; however, the same technique can be used. Simply season the beef on all sides with a generous amount of salt and pepper, then saute (I use walnut or almond oil) briefly on each side (only 20 seconds). The goal is to create a textural contrast when enjoying the beef... a rich edge encrusting a vibrant raw interior. Allow the beef to cool before slicing and pounding in the same manner described above.

"To go beyond is as wrong as to fall short" - Confucius

J'adore.
sb