Sophisticated Savories

Sophisticated Savories

Friday, November 22, 2013

Balance of Textures, Flavors and Seasonings


Learning how to balance textures, flavor profiles and seasonings is a skill that is not integrated into one's life overnight. No, no. Rather, years of experience in both dining, as well as cooking aid in teaching the technicalities of a composed dish... not to mention an entire harmonious meal. All too often, I find myself experimenting in the kitchen... remaining cool, calm and collected to bystanders, yet having an internal dialogue of, "well... I hope this works!"

The point being: as a chef, it is essential to step out of your comfort zone and experiment. Now, I am not a proponent of experimenting during a scheduled dinner party; but rather, use "free" moments to step outside of the box and educated yourself hands-on with textures, spices, herbs and new produce.

Lighter Dinner...

First Course: Fresh arugula, shaved fennel and asparagus, blood orange supremes with roasted pistachios and balsamic reduction

Pistachios - roast on a baking sheet at 400 degrees F for 5-7 minutes; turning the baking sheet while roasting, to prevent the pistachios from burning.

Shaved fennel and asparagus - using a mandolin and/or peeler, carefully shave thin slices of both the fennel and asparagus. Since these two root veggies will not be cooked, the intention is to be sliced thin enough that they remain crunchy, though easy to chew. If the pieces are too thick, then the diner, regardless of how sophisticated he or she is, will resemble a cow trying to chew past the "woodsy" root veggie.

Not exactly what we are going for here, folks.

Blood orange supremes - I shall do a blog teaching you how to segment an orange in order to retrieve the supremes.

In a small bowl, combine the shaved fennel, asparagus, arugula, blood orange supremes and pistachios. Drizzle with pistachio oil, juice of 1/2 lemon, sprinkle of salt and pepper.

Presentation - In the middle of a white plate, carefully stack the salad mixture. Place a few of the orange supreme segments around the salad, then drizzle with reduced balsamic vinaigrette.

Second Course: Stuffed Dover sole with caramelized onions, spinach/kale, blood orange reduction and chickpea purée

Chickpea puree - Rinse canned chickpeas and dry with paper towel. Saute in walnut oil with smoky paprika, herbs de Provence and salt/pepper. Place in Vitamix/blender with juice of 1/2 lemon and blend until smooth.

Blood orange reduction - simply squeeze juice from 1 large blood orange and juice of 1/2 lemon. Place in saute pan and allow to reduce on the stove until a thick consistency.

Caramelized onions, spinach and kale - Saute on stove top with extra virgin olive oil, salt and touch of cayenne pepper. Once caramelized, add a mixture of spinach and kale (these will cook quickly, as they simply need to "wilt" and will retain the seasonings from the caramelized onions.

Dover Sole - a very delicate fish... I simply seasoned with salt, pepper and a touch of lemon juice, then sauteed on the stove with walnut oil (only 1 minute each side, as it is a thin and delicate fish). Since I had "left-over" lobster stuffing from the amuse bouche (posted yesterday,) I simply spread that in the middle of the cooked fillet, then gently rolled the flaky fish into a delicate cylinder.

Presentation - Spoon a large dollop of the chickpea puree on the bottom the plate, then add the caramelized onion/spinach/kale mixture. Place the stuffed Dover sole atop the greens, then add micro greens to top off the fish and build volume. Drizzle the plate with the blood orange reduction.

"True art is characterized by an irresistible urge in the creative artist" - Albert Einstein

J'adore.
sb
 

Fusion of Food


Fusion.

Nuclear fusion? Fusion power? Jazz fusion?

How about... fusion of food.

As a chef, there are two pathways that one can undertake in order to further his or her culinary career: remain at a restaurant and work from the bottom of the totum-pole: commis to executive chef, or work at a plethora of different restaurants in order to learn and gain an understanding about different types of cuisines. I chose the latter with the purpose of furthering my culinary knowledge, honing my skills and learning from seasoned chefs.

Thus sparked my passion for fusion food... a marrying and blending of different cultures via the medium of food. I recently executed a private dinner with the following three-course menu:

1) Roasted beet salad with chive buds and nori dried seaweed
2) Yellowtail Hamachi with edamame puree, pickled mango and nori dried seaweed
3) Chicken medallions with edamame/cilantro puree, hearts of palm, micro greens and demi-glaze

Three-courses. Asian/American with French-inspired techniques.

Oh, the possibilities!

First course.
Roasted golden beets. No, not canned. In order to roast beets, simply scrub purchased beets to remove the dirt. Toss beets with olive oil, salt and pepper, then place on baking sheet and cover with foil. Allow to roast at 400 degrees F until tender with a knife (beets generally take longer than one would think to roast... the smaller the beet, the faster the cook speed). Small/medium beets will take about 30 minutes to roast properly.

When tender to the knife cut, remove from oven and allow to cool briefly. While the beets are still warm, carefully remove and discard the skin (easier to remove when warm, as opposed to cooled completely). Slice beets into shapes/slices/chunks (depending on how you chose to present the beet on the final plating). Place cut beets in a clean bowl and drizzle with sesame seed oil, salt, touch of cayenne pepper, sprinkle of lemon juice and sesame seeds. Allow the beets to marinate in the sesame seed oil for about 10 minutes. Before serving, place chive buds in the marinade as well in order to season the garnish. The dried seaweed nori can be cut with scissors into thin strips.

Presentation... place the beets and chive buds in the center of a white plate. Allow the chive buds to interweave between the beets, creating a nest of buds. In order to increase the volume, carefully stack a few of the beets/buds atop one another. Add thin slices of dried nori in "random," but appropriate openings. As the chef, you are an artist... be creative, yet also discerning when to stop adding to a plate. Simple, clean lines are encouraged.


Second course.
Remember that nori dried seaweed? This ingredient from the first course will be carried into the second course. This will aid in "connecting" the dishes into a composed meal, as opposed to singular courses.

Edamame puree - place 2 cups of frozen edamame (shelled) into salted water. Bring to a boil, then allow to cook for about 5 minutes. Drain, then place edamame in Vitamix/blender and allow to puree. Drizzle sesame seed oil (about 1/4 cup) while the edamame are in the blender - this will help to "thin" the puree, as well as to incorporate the subtle sesame seed flavor. To finish, add 1 tsp lemon juice, 2 Tbsp heavy cream, pinch of cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Final consistency should be relatively thick, but not too chunky.

Pickled mango - Bring 1 cup water, 2 Tbsp brown sugar, 1 Tbsp white vinegar, juice of 1/2 lemon and 2 tsp sea salt to boil. Dice mango, then place into clean bowl/jar. When water boils, carefully pour over mango. Allow to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

Yellowtail Hamachi - sushi grade... slice thin!

Presentation - dollop a spoonful of edamame puree on a white plate, then run the back of the spoon through the puree, across the plate. Place a trail of the pickled mango on the plate, then carefully stack the raw Hamachi atop the mango. Dust the Hamachi with the dried nori and place a few edamame beans and microgreens around the plate.


Third course.
Chicken medallions with edamame/cilantro puree, hearts of palm, micro greens and demi-glaze

The third course also uses the edamame puree; however, I added fresh cilantro leaves to the puree in order to add a subtle change of flavor.

Chicken breast medallions - flatten the chicken breast with a meat-pounder (can use a pastry rolling-pin). Spoon a small amount of the edamame/cilantro puree into the center of the flattened chicken breast, then wrap tightly into a tight roll. Use culinary string to keep chicken breast rolls together. Season the outside of the chicken rolls with salt and pepper, then sear atop the stove on a saute pan with almond or walnut oil (the nut oils provide another element of flavor to enhance the chicken). Place in 400 degree F oven and cook for about 8 -10 minutes (for smaller breast rolls). The rolls will cook quickly because not only were they flattened to be thinner, but they were already seared on the stove. They will be ready when no longer pink from within. When cooled slightly, carefully cut into medallions... the edamame/cilantro puree will shine in the middle of the medallion.

Hearts of palm - marinate with sesame seed oil, salt and pepper.

Presentation - Dollop a small amount of edamame/cilantro puree on a white plate, then use the back of the spoon to run through the dollop and create a line. Place the chicken breast medallions close to the line of the edamame/cilantro puree, then top with marinated hearts of palm, and micro greens. Finish with a quick drizzle of demi-glaze.

Et, voila. Three courses, fused together with complimentary ingredients from around the world.

Not too shabby.

"A musician must make music, an artist must paint, a poet must write, if he is to be at peace with himself. What a man can be, he must be." - Abraham Maslo

J'adore.
sb
 

Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Amuse Bouche - Lobster-stuffed Portabella Mushrooms


Let's face it... dining can be intimidating when one is not versed in Français or a seasoned gourmand.

Roll play, shall we?

Valet opens your car door and you gracefully enter though opulent doors of a reputable restaurant in your favorite city. Greeted by the handsome host, you follow his/her lead as all eyes gaze upon your entrance. ...

{walk slowly, gracefully... do not fall... do not fall...}

Charmingly bid the host a subtle "thank you" as your Victorian-chair is pulled for you to enjoy the forthcoming evening. A dazzling candle-lit atmosphere cascade gentle shadows on the billowing curtains.

Gently open the grandiose menu and begin to peruse the delicacies offered...

Amuse Bouche.

Excuse me?

"In America we speak American. Shake and Bake."

Mood-killer. I know... I was doing so well until that Ricky Bobby reference.

Back to the Amuse Bouche. Literally "to tickle to palate."

To those who do not deem themselves as a "foodie," fret not. Just because you do not necessarily dine as a "hobby," your taste buds will always enjoy a tasty morsel of nourriture. The purpose of an amuse bouche is to prepare your taste buds for the upcoming meal... a foreshadowing of flavors wrapped into one small bite, if you will.

An amuse bouche can literally be anything that your little heart desires. Remember to marry the themes of your courses when serving a multi-course dinner. For example, if mushrooms are being served for one course, perhaps use mushrooms in your amuse bouche. If rosemary is a star herb for the multi-course meal, then use rosemary in the amuse bouche. Again, the purpose is to "kick-start" the meal with a "hint" of what is to be expected.

One example... Lobster stuffed portabella mushrooms with creme fraiche, caviar and cheritaki sauce.

Cheritaki sauce
1/2 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup water
2 Tbsp rice wine
8 large Bing cherries - pitted
1/4 cup sugar
1 1/2 tsp minced garlic
1 1/2 tsp minced ginger
juice of 1/2 lemon
pinch of cayenne pepper

Combine ingredients in a saucepan on medium heat until the sugar is dissolved...then blend on high in Vitamix (or blender) in order to incorporate the cherries into the sauce.

Portabella Mushrooms
Do not run mushrooms under water when cleaning, as they will absorb too much water in the process. However, be sure to thoroughly clean the baby bellas with a paper towel or a soft brush; otherwise, the dirt will ruin the entire meal. Simply toss with extra virgin olive oil, pinch of cayenne pepper, squeeze of lemon juice, sprinkle of Herbs de Provence and dash of smoked sea salt. Allow to roast in the oven at 400 degrees F until tender with a fork (cooking time will vary, as mushroom sizes vary - the smaller the mushroom, the less time needed to roast).

Stuffing
Caramelized onions... Caramelizing onions, by slowly cooking them in a little olive oil until they are richly browned, is a wonderful way to pull flavor out of the simplest of ingredients. Slice off the stem ends of the onion (I generally use white onions) and place them cut side down on the cutting board. Peel the onion, then cut into thin slices. Coat the bottom of a non-stick saute pan with Extra Virgin Olive Oil (may add butter, if desired. Heat the pan on medium high heat until the oil is shimmering. Add the onion slices and stir to coat the onions with the oil. Spread the onions out evenly over the pan and let cook, stirring occasionally. As soon as the onions start sticking to the pan, let them stick a little and brown, but then stir them before they burn... should take about 15-20 minutes. Add chicken/vegetable stock or water if the onions stick too much. Season with salt and pepper.

Once the onions have caramelized, remove from the heat and allow to cool.

Beurre monté... An extraordinary culinary vehicle that infuses butter into meats and fish (in our case, lobster). Essentially, poaching the lobster tail in butter. In a saucepan, bring 1 tablespoon of water to a boil over high heat; reduce the heat to low and begin adding the chunks of butter (a little at a time) whisking constantly to emulsify. Once the emulsion is started, more butter may be whisked in (1/2 cup total). Hold the temperature of the beurre monté between 160 and 190 degrees F for poaching... IMPORTANT - Do NOT allow the mixture to boil... otherwise, it will "break" and no longer be of use.

Such a shame.

Ergo, place the raw lobster (raw, sliced into small chunks) into the prepared beurre monté and allow to poach... the lobster will turn a brilliant orange color and be warmed through (no longer translucent).

Once cooked, combine with caramelized onions and stuff into the roasted baby bellas.

Finishing touches and plating. My favorite part!

Since the multi-course meal incorporated a fusion of flavors from around the world, I paired the Cheritaki sauce as a garnish on the bottom of the plate, to enhance the buttery richness of the lobster. Simply spoon a dollop of sauce on a white plate, then use the back of a spoon to drag across the plate, creating an "artistic" line. Place the lobster-stuffed portabella near the sauce, then top with creme fraiche and caviar; this elevates a simple mushroom from 'earthy' to 'sophisticated.'

Touché.

Finally, lightly sprinkle the plate with crushed fried kale... gives a needed "pop" or green color to the final plate.

And love, of course.

"The true work of art is but a shadow of the divine perfection" - Michelangelo

Love from OHIO!
sb

Sunday, September 8, 2013

Raw ahi tuna with Citrus Marinade

Raw ahi tuna with Citrus Marinade

Incredibly quick, easy and healthy... be sure to use a high-quality ahi tuna, as you will be consuming said fish raw.

I simply marinated my ahi in 1/2 cup of freshly squeezed orange juice, splash of lemon and lime, 1 tsp sesame oil, pinch of cayenne and sea salt. Place in the refrigerator for about 30 minutes (allowing the citrus to permeate and seep into the tuna).

While the tuna is marinating, cut supremes from an orange, as well as fresh jalapeño, raw red onion and green onion. Cut the green onion on a bias, meaning - the diagonal. This will allow them to display a more glamorous "diamond" shape, as opposed to a simple circle (more 'restaurant' presentation).

In a small bowl, combine 1/4 cup mayo, 1 tsp wasabi paste and sprinkle of sea salt... whisk together to form a wasabi-mayo.

When plating, carefully line the ahi tuna into rows - being sure to keep the lines clean and modern. Carefully spoon the citrus reduction atop the ahi, and allow to cascade to the bottom of the plate... creating a small pool for the tuna to rest. Top the ahi with a slice of jalapeño, orange segment, raw onion and green onion. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and dot the plate with the wasabi mayo.

Simple. Sophisticated. Healthy.

Love y'all dearly!! xo 

Ahi tuna

Ahi tuna.

I know - you're probably thinking sesame seed oil and more asian-influence, right?

#creativityfail

Such a versatile fish - allow yourself to be more expressive in terms of flavors.

One of my favorite dried herbs - herbs de Provence - simply a descriptive term referring to herbs typical of Provence (France). Generally a mix of: savory, fennel, basil, thyme and lavender.

Simply season ahi steak with a sprinkle of salt, pepper and generous crust of herbs de provence. Heat olive oil in a hot sauté pan, then simply sear the ahi one each side - for about 10 seconds. This will allow the herbs de provence to marry into the skin and slowly permeate throughout the fish. Yes, the majority of the fish will in fact be raw - and sparkling pink.

Accruements? Remember your peeler when working in the kitchen. I simply shaved carrots (into "faux noodles"), and red radish to thin slices. Combined with arugula and frisée, as well as a few julienne cuts of celery. Marinated with fresh lemon juice, sea salt, ground pepper and basil oil. The basil oil elevates the shaved roots by providing a subtle-herb complexity to the thinly-sliced vegetables.

To finish, using a serrated knife, carefully slice the ahi into thin stripes. Simply drizzle a touch of basil oil atop the ahi tuna and add a few edible flowers for a feminine touch.

Simple. Sophisticated. Healthy.

Love y'all dearly!

Goat cheese and beet mousse with roasted beets

Goat cheese and beet mousse with roasted beets...

I know, when I mention, "beets," most immediately snuff up their nose and dismiss the root vegetable. Why? Because many have only enjoyed beets when consumed from a can.

Trust me, canned beets are nothing like their roasted, sweet and savory counterparts.

#truestory

Where to begin:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Scrub beets with soapy water (beets are root vegetables - essential to remove the grind and dirt from the skin). Place a large piece of foil on a baking sheet and season with olive oil, salt and pepper. Place beets on the foil and season again - olive oil, salt and pepper... then wrap the foil around the beets (like a little package) and place in the oven. Essential, this will steam and roast the beets at the same time.

Depending on the size of the beets, they will usually take about 40-60 minutes. They will be finished when tender to cut with a knife. Remove and allow to cool for about 5 minutes. At this point, if they are pink beets, I will use gloves... as the pink will stain your hands (and clothes too... be careful!) If golden beets, they will not stain your hands... Carefully remove the skin (beets will be hot, but always easier to remove the skin of the beets when warm).

With the roasted beets, we are going to serve the beets in three ways: one, simply roasted, as is; two, beet coulis; three, beet/goat cheese mousse.

Roasted - already cooked: simply toss with extra-virgin olive oil, touch of dijon mustard, crushed pepper, pinch of cayenne pepper and Himalayan sea salt.

Beet coulis - In a blender, puree 5 medium roasted (no skin) beets, juice of 1/2 lemon, 1 tsp dijon mustard, salt and pepper (to taste), pinch of cayenne pepper and about 1/4 cup olive oil. Blend until smooth. May add a little more olive oil (consistency should be slightly thicker than a soup... able to keep it's shape when spooned onto a plate).

Beet/Goat Cheese Mousse - Beat together 4 oz goat cheese and 2 Tbsp heavy cream in a mixer... before fully whipped, add about 1 tsp beet coulis. This will give the mousse a hint of beet essence, as well as brilliant pink color.

As far as presentation - if different beet colors are available, use that to your advantage. For example, I used pink beets for the beet coulis and beet/goat cheese mousse... and golden beets for the roasted beets. This will provide a brilliant color contrast for the beautiful August summer.

Simple. Sophisticated. Healthy.

Love y'all!

Lamb tenderloin


Lamb tenderloin

First off - hot sauté pan with smoking oil... I prefer almond or walnut oil. Season all sides of the lamb tenderloin, then carefully place into the pan. Gracefully tip the sauté pan away from you - slightly - allowing the meat to cook at the end of the pan. This will ensure a faster sear, as the meat is being cooked not only on the bottom, but side as well. As the lamb is attaining a brilliant crust, cut and entire head of garlic in half. Place in the sauté pan, with springs of thyme. After the lamb has been seared on all sides (including the side), place the thyme atop the garlic, then place the tenderloin atop the thyme. Add a few knobs of butter, then baste the lamb... ensuring that the garlic/thyme/butter seeps into the meat - locking in moisture and juices.

#droolmuch

Transfer the pan into a 400 degree oven for about 8-10 minutes. Depending on the size of the meat, the timing may alter slightly. Your best bet? Invest in a meat thermometer if you do not have enough experience to tell - by touch - the degree of doneness.

While the meat is cooking, sauté diced onions. Allow to caramelize on a medium/high heat (careful not to burn). Toss in small broccoli flourettes (raw) and continue to cook.

After the meat has cooked, remove from the oven and allow to REST - essential to allow the juices to be absorbed into the fibers, as opposed to cutting immediately and allowing that liquid gold to be disbursed onto the cutting board...

Remove the thyme and garlic from the sauté pan and deglaze with red wine. Pour the brownings into the sauté pan with caramelized onions and broccoli. Add boiled potatoes and allow to reduce.

When plating, keep it simple... a few potatoes, chopped spring onions, broccoli and lamb in the center.

Sophisticated, elegant, delicious.

C'est la vie. La vie en rose.

Love y'all!
sb